Putting a modern spin on many classic Chinese dishes, Chef Jowett Yu’s funky interpretations have won many admirers. Entering the restaurant, which takes inspiration from the traditional cha chaan teng, the tea cafes that spread across Hong Kong in the aftermath of WWII, you are confronted by the open kitchen, where Yu and his team whip up dishes such as “Slightly fires the emperor” garlic chive flower, chorizo, cashews and shiitake mushrooms, and the twice-cooked green beans with pickled turnips, five-spiced tofu and Chinese olive. Past the kitchen and downstairs is where the eating happens, a cool, unfussy, dimly lit space to sit back for a laid-back feast.

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