It’s remarkably easy to get lost in Istria. Once away from the azure Adriatic coast, the sun-kissed Croatian peninsula is a maze of vine- and olive-grove-covered hills and idyllic villages where the ravages of an unstable political history seem to have had little effect. Still, getting lost often leads to things worth finding: the region is teeming with gems hidden in many corners of this place so blessed with natural good looks. And Stanzia Baracija, a stunning hilltop villa overlooking the village of Krasica, about 15 kilometres inland from the peninsula’s western coast, is one of the crown jewels.

Consisting of a main house, originally built in the 19th century, and a connecting guesthouse, the two-hectare, exclusive-use property has been renovated to combine the highest level of modern amenities (like a cutting-edge spa) while losing none of its rustic charm – an atmosphere bolstered by the use of centuries-old Istrian stone in the reconstruction process. The main dwelling sleeps 10 guests (in one king, two queen and two double-twin suites), while a further six can make the guesthouse, just steps away, their home from home.

Stanzia Baracija

Each room has been decorated and furnished in an eclectic yet subtle fashion, with pastel colours to the fore. While nothing takes away from the bucolic beauty of the surrounding scenery – olive groves and vineyards as far as the eye can see – the amazing artwork that fills the property undoubtedly comes close. Drawn from the owner’s private collection, sculptures and paintings enrich every room, and each tells a story, be it with well-known works by Dutch masters or notable pieces by Croatian artists.

Privacy here is a major draw. From the secluded location to the discreet staff, the serenity is never disturbed. That is not to say there aren’t impressive communal areas for socialising. The spacious living and dining areas, a well-equipped playroom, private cinema and the indulgent spa ensure every whim is catered for. A particularly smart touch is a hidden lift that helps guests with limited mobility navigate the four floors.

© Stara Škola

Istria is very much an outdoor experience and, with a host of terraces and perfectly set green spaces, Baracija has it all, culminating in the outdoor pool with a postcard-worthy view and the magnificent summer terrace where the dining table seats up to 20 people.

Food and wine, of course, play a major role in Baracija’s offerings. There’s a vegetable garden and orchards on-site, while a private chef can prepare fabulous Istrian fare. Cooking classes and wine-tasting courses are available.

© Clai wintery

As well as being a destination in its own right, this is an ideal base from which to explore the local area and, in particular, two establishments that share ownership with the stanzia. Less than a kilometre away, Clai winery is a wonderful combination of forward-thinking viticulture that honours traditional techniques and the region’s ancient terroir. Its wide range of organic and biodynamic wines (the Ottocento Pinot Sivi, a beautifully complex pinot grigio, is a delight) can be enjoyed on a rooftop terrace that affords striking views over its 10 hectares of vines. Clai also supplies wine to the nearby Stara Škola, a former schoolhouse-turned-restaurant where, under the guidance of world-renowned Slovenian chef Ana Roš, chef Jan Vukasović crafts artful plates of contemporary Istrian cuisine with an emphasis on local ingredients in a scene enhanced by both contemporary art and stunning rooftop views.

 With the arrival of the Monumenti Heritage Hotel & Resort in Pula and the Pical Resort, Valamar Collection in Poreč – opened in 2025 and in June this year, respectively – Istria’s accommodation options have never been better. But for sheer indulgent hospitality and the ultimate in privacy, nowhere beats Stanzia Baracija.

© Clai winery