Couture Week Jewels
In a break from tradition, high jewellery designers show privately in Paris – not publicly at the Biennale in September – amping up the exclusivity. Here’s a glimpse at what was on show.
Boucheron. Rock crystal and large, unusual stones like morganite or onyx make spectacular pieces in Claire Choisne’s latest collection, 26 Vendôme, which celebrates the historic brand’s codes. Epitome of chic.
Damier cabochon bracelet
Damier cabochon ring
Hôtel Particulier earrings
Hôtel Particulier ring
Lys Radiant brooch
Lys Radiant necklace
Nara the deer ring
Plume de Paon ring
Vendôme chromatique ring
Vendôme chromatique necklace
Images: Boucheron
Bulgari. Favourite themes, including the Diva trumpets, Serpenti and unexpected colour clashes interpreted in bold new pieces which are surprisingly light and always flexible, shimmering with movement. The pearls are an unusual move.
Mediterranean Eden Serpenti necklace
Roman Heritage Parentesi necklace
Roman Heritage Parentesi body necklace
Mediterranean Eden Serpenti bracelet
Mediterranean Eden earrings
Italian Extravaganza necklace
Italian Extravaganza ring
Italian Extravaganza Diva’s Dream earrings
Mediterranean Eden Fiore allegro necklace
Italian Extravaganza Divas’ Dream Eleganza necklace
Images: Bulgari
Chanel. A wheat theme – a Coco Chanel favourite – proved motif for the year, with others too. Done most sumptuously here, with more colour than Chanel is wont to include.
Brins de diamants ring
Brins de Printemps ring
Épi Vendôme ring
Impression de Blé earrings
Brins de Printemps bracelet
Champs de Blé bracelet
Moisson de Perles bracelet
L'Épi brooch
Moisson d'Or necklace
Moisson de Perles necklace
Images: Chanel
Chaumet. An exquisite mix of antique and modern style. Complex, beautiful symbolic designs, extraordinary stones. Based on nature and Chaumet’s signature love thereof. Most artistic floral depictions in Paris, and the aformentioned wheat.
Blé Offrande ring
Chêne ring
Chêne ring
Laurier ring
Laurier ring
Laurier Longues ring
Images: Chaumet
De Beers. London architecture-inspired collection that ups the craft levels and shows virtuosity of different cuts of top quality diamond, from enormous to small but sparkling due to expert cut.
Thames Path earrings
London View earrings
Thames Path necklace
London View necklace
Elizabeth Tower necklace
Battersea Light necklace
Albert Bridge necklace
Albert Bridge bracelet
Images: de Beers
Dior. Inspired by Versailles and taken from small decorative details like swagged curtain ribbons and tassels, mirrors and chandeliers. Interesting asymmetry and use of treated metals. Great colour combos and handwork.
Salon d'Apollon necklace
Salon de Vénus Saphir Rose ring
Ruban Rubis earrings
Guirlande Saphir Rose ring
Fontagne Saphir Rose necklace
Fontange Saphir Rose earrings
Chambre du Roi necklace
Appartements de Mesdames Balustrade ring
Appartements de Mesdames Arabesque ring
Appartements de Mesdames Alcôve ring
Acanthe Saphir Rose ring
Images: Dior
Giampiero Bodino. Richemont’s in-house design genius refines his favourite themes with amazing richness of colour combinations, wealth of rare stones and aesthetic daring. Not for shrinking violets.
Tesori del Mare necklace
Rosa dei Venti earrings
Passamaneria ring
Mosaico bracelet
Images: Giampiero Bodino
Graff. Arriving in the home of high jewellery, the London coloured diamond specialists have several openwork pieces showing great prowess and a new interest in emeralds.
Yellow and white diamond necklace
Beaded emerald and diamond necklace
Beaded emerald and diamond necklace, close up
Beaded emerald and diamond earrings
Images: Graff
Louis Vuitton. The most accomplished collection so far in craft terms from LV’s high jewellery division. Based on unusual stones and daring colours, includes enamel and guilloché work.
Blossom ring
Blossom ring
Blossom earrings
Blossom necklace
Blossom ring
Blossom ring
Blossom bracelet
Blossom earrings
Images: Louis Vuitton
Mellerio. France’s oldest jewellery house does a cocktail ring collection to celebrate upcoming exhibition at Musée d’Orsay. Daring colour schemes and rare stones - Padparascha sapphires, huge aquamarines, lacquerwork.
Porto Ercole ring
Paratii ring
Livadia ring
Goa ring
Cape Cod ring
Nosy Be ring
Images: Mellerio
Messika. Diamond specialist’s cascading earcuffs, two-finger rings and three-row necklaces of different cuts distinctively edged with pavé have both youth appeal and serious high jewellery sparkle.
Solena Maya earcuff
Hera necklace
Calypso earcuff
Cassiopée double ring
Images: Messika
Piaget. Sunny Side of Life - exuberant collection, over 120 pieces, celebrating summer glamour, colour and craftsmanship, from goldsmithing to featherwork. Plus some amazing stones including big Paraiba-type tourmalines.
Sunny Side of Life earrings
Sunny Side of Life necklace
Sunny Side of Life necklace
Sunny Side of Life manchette
Sunny Side of Life manchette
Sunny Side of Life ring
Images: Piaget
Reza. Olivier Reza uses important stones - huge Ceylon sapphires, big carved emeralds - from his family collection, contrasting their softness with modern, geometric design. Spiral or Ribbon earrings embrace the lobes.
Ruban Saphir earrings
Delhéa bracelet
Dune Coque earrings
Dune earrings
Toi et Moi Spinelle ring
Dune ring
Areza Titan or Noir Spinelle bracelet
Images: Reza
Tiffany. Designer Francesca Amfitheatrof gives new pep to a traditional house – openwork “disco ball” rings, baguette pink sapphires paired with diamonds to give shading, interesting vintage-style pearl combos.
Tiffany Masterpieces ring
Tiffany Masterpieces ring
Tiffany Masterpieces pendant
Tiffany Masterpieces pendant
Tiffany Masterpieces necklace
Tiffany Masterpieces earrings
Tiffany Masterpieces earrings
Tiffany Masterpieces clip
Images: Tiffany
Van Cleef & Arpels. Eméraude en Majesté empties the brand’s long-held hoard of extraordinary emeralds, plus new ones, all chosen on quality. None more magisterial than giant cabochons with sapphire, or mystery set baguettes.
Twist Emeraude bracelet
Zip Couture collerette
Espérance earrings
Delphi earrings
Claudine necklace
Canopeée ring
Images: Van Cleef & Arpels
