A Sense of Place
Dreamy overwater villas and postcard-perfect beaches are a given across the Maldives’ coral atolls. But not all island paradises are created alike – and these resorts offer more than just a pretty view.
Aquarium-like lagoons, pristine sandy beaches, coconut palms … we all think we know the Maldives. But the territory encompasses more than a thousand islands, and also almost two parallel worlds. On the one side, a state governed through a mix of common and sharia law. On the other, islands showcasing everything that strict Islamic morality condemns, where even time seems to flow differently (many hotels run an hour ahead to maximise daylight). Precisely because of the archipelago’s scattered geography, these worlds rarely intersect. To take the pulse of this often paradoxical nation, it is important to choose one’s base carefully. Unsatisfied with being mere picture-postcard backdrops, these select addresses, scattered across the country’s atolls, are grounded in both their exquisite natural setting and a strong sense of authenticity. They are places designed to resonate deeply, to which one returns not out of habit, but out of attachment.
© Soneva Fushi
The story of this resort begins in the 1980s, when Swedish model Eva Malmström introduced Sonu Shivdasani, a Brit of Indian descent, to the Maldives. Shivdasani fell in love with the archipelago and decided to transform an island on the Baa Atoll (a 30-minute hydroplane ride north of Malé) into a luxe getaway for modern-day Robinson Crusoes. Following a philosophy he dubbed “no news, no shoes”, this visionary project gave rise to the concept of barefoot luxury and remains, to this day, a benchmark for all developments across the country. Long known as the only high-end resort in the Maldives without overwater villas, the hotel finally caved and inaugurated its first “Water Retreats” in 2020, complete with private pools, slides and retractable roofs. Still, its true essence lies in the houses hidden among the vegetation, with direct access to crystalline waters where one can swim with the harmless blacktip reef sharks. Nature is omnipresent here: you awaken to the sound of birdsong, share breakfast with the rabbits, and take it in from above with the four ziplines of the 200m treetop adventure course. The plant kingdom finds its way onto your plate at the Fresh in the Garden restaurant, perched above a vast kitchen garden and the forest beyond. A range of environmental measures enables the establishment to recycle nearly 90 per cent of its waste on site. The Instagram-obsessed may lament the stretch of horizon obscured by the neighbouring island, but the echo of the call to prayer anchors guests in reality – and gives this place a soul that nobody can copy and paste.
© COMO Maalifushi
The sole resort in the peaceful Thaa Atoll awaits after a spectacular hour-long flight southward from Malé. Surrounded by white-sand beaches and a reef of vibrant corals, mushrooms and branches, it’s a veritable paradise for divers and keen anglers. Admittedly, the infrastructure and villas could do with a refresh, but COMO Maalifushi possesses a treasure that few can rival: Lavadhoo, the immaculate neighbouring island, accessible by kayak, boat or swim. There, candlelit dinners and picnics take centre stage, but nothing beats the sleepover. Imagine a sunset cruise (dolphins often decide to join the party), followed by a barbecue washed down with champagne and an open-air film screening before sliding between the sheets of a four-poster bed beneath the stars. The next morning’s return to civilisation involves breakfast and a COMO Shambhala yoga class. An island itinerary for the ages.
© Six Senses Laamu
Several hotels in the Maldives institute ambitious programmes to preserve the ocean, its marine life and its ecosystems. Here, that commitment is a priority. The resort has established partnerships with three NGOs (the Manta Trust, Blue Marine Foundation and Olive Ridley Project), and a number of initiatives have been implemented within the surrounding protected marine areas. Whether it’s donating water-purification systems to local communities, protecting manta rays and sea turtles, or managing and reducing waste, this ethos is at the very heart of how Six Senses Laamu operates. Guests are invited to get involved through guided snorkelling excursions, self-sufficiency workshops at the Earth Lab, or discovering marine-conservation techniques at the Sea Hub of Environmental Learning in Laamu (SHELL). The resort’s approach to learning is simultaneously fun and rigorous – particularly valuable when it comes to raising awareness among younger guests. The exceptional water quality also delights surfers, who are drawn to the remarkable – and deserted! – waves. The Tropicsurf team accompanies novices and experienced wave-catchers alike as they discover the archipelago’s best breaks. Soon, Shoulders, Turtles, Petrols and Ying Yangs – nearby surf breaks – will hold no secrets for you.
© Stevie Mann
Continue 3,000 kilometres west, and you’ll reach the Somali coast. The only hotel on the Makunudhoo Atoll, Soneva Secret, is an untamed Eden cut off from the world, without seawalls or wavebreaks, but with maximum wind exposure. The area is so isolated that deposed members of the Maldivian royal family and criminals were once exiled here. As the sands shift, the configuration of the isle changes, with the seabed dropping to depths of over 2,500 metres. The resort comprises 14 villas, on stilts or beachside, which are even more open to the elements than any other of the brand’s hotels (even the glass doors of the rooms can be removed). Each features an exclusive-use gym, a massage table for private treatments, and a “barefoot guardian” on hand to anticipate every desire (hands down the best butler service across this selection of properties). After sundowners at the Secret Bar, the circular-gastronomy restaurant Out of This World awaits a hundred metres or so offshore – a curious tower resembling a lighthouse, accessible by bridge or zipwire, offering breathtaking views from the top. Equally seductive is So Primitive, where local fish is cooked under the sand, and meat is grilled over an open flame. As at Fushi, everything here is elegant, discreet and unpretentious: just the essentials.
© Joali Being
Just 15 minutes by boat from its older sibling, Joali Maldives, this refuge is the first in the archipelago entirely devoted to wellbeing. A pioneer in its approach, it thinks big and easily rivals the best destinations of its kind internationally. The spa, Areka, boasts no fewer than 39 treatment rooms – a remarkable ratio to the 68 villas. Saunas, a hammam, a banya, a cryotherapy chamber, a Watsu pool, a halotherapy room … each area of the wellness centre serves specific needs, organised around four pillars (mind, microbiome, skin, energy) that guide both the care protocols and the incredible cuisine. There’s also Core, the largest gym in the country, and Seda, a sound-therapy suite using 14 instruments. The accommodations are equally dazzling: thatched structures with soaring ceilings and oversized doors, appointed in a palette of turquoise, pink and dove grey, with canopied beds and open spaces facing the ocean featuring bathtubs or infinity pools. Care and attention permeate every detail, from a cloakroom coordinated with the resort’s colour scheme to ergonomic office chairs and a selection of teas echoing the four pillars. In a word: magnificent.
© Joali Being
