Grant van Gameran’s first solo venture since leaving the lauded Black Hoof is a wilfully 21st-century urban take on the Spanish tapas bar; replete with clouded mirrors, wood panelling and a cosy, dimly lit vibe that can get very noisy indeed on weekend nights. Although conversation can be a struggle, enjoying the dishes is an absurdly straight forward pleasure with an emphasis here moving away from charcuterie and onto seafood. Order generously and fill your table with bijou delights including whole octopus in white wine, air-dried albacore tuna with marcona almonds and an overflowing bowl of moreish shishitos peppers.

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