With tables scattered around the gargantuan trunk of a colossal banyan tree, this is a restaurant to linger in for a long afternoon of unapologetic sybaritic excess just off the bellicose Rua Oscar Freire. This is the best place in the city for red meat fanatics; the picanha sumus (premium top sirloin) could be cut with a spoon but there’s plenty beyond the bovine here with prawns from Santa Catarina, Argentinian hake, lobster from Pernambuco and peacock bass, pirarucus and tambaquis from the Amazon all present, correct and outstandingly prepared.

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