Once Upon a Time …
Some five centuries since the advent of watchmaking, the mechanical watch is still evolving, says Elizabeth Doerr, who offers an under-the-loupe examination of Rolex’s new Land-Dweller.
Celebrating 120 years this year, Rolex still isn’t showing its age. The April debut of its Land-Dweller – the renowned Swiss marque’s first watch with a high-frequency 5Hz movement – is a case in point. High-frequency watches are having a moment across the industry; what sets the Land-Dweller apart is its novel escapement style – a very big deal in a heritage-steeped industry in which the traditional Swiss lever escapement has reigned supreme since, well, ever.
Dubbed the Dynapulse, the cutting-edge escapement in the brand-new automatic Calibre 7135 represents a technological leap for Rolex, not only for its enhanced oscillating speed but because its indirect-impulse escapement style is powered by dual silicon wheels. More than a decade in development, Calibre 7135 has 16 patents pending, seven of which are for the escapement. Its goal is to reduce friction and mitigate externally produced disturbances (providing better shock protection), which increases efficiency by lowering energy consumption by about 30 per cent.
Make no mistake: these elements are important. Calibre 7135 beats at a higher frequency than any other modern Rolex, most of which are set to four hertz. A watch’s frequency is measured by the number of semi-oscillations a balance spring makes in one hour, expressed in hertz (Hz). As a rule, higher frequency equals higher precision. Until recently, the main disadvantage has been that higher frequency also equals faster wear and tear to the movement. Improved materials mean less friction (like silicon, which naturally needs less, or no, lubrication) and a longer lifespan, allowing traditional watchmakers to set escapements to higher frequencies in service of more precision.
Rolex had already introduced the Rolex-manufactured silicon Syloxi hairspring in its automatic Calibre 2236 back in 2014. But silicon is not the only new material here: Calibre 7135’s patented balance staff is manufactured in a high-tech ceramic that is sculpted by laser, a first for the brand.
Aesthetically, the new Land-Dweller echoes some time-honoured designs from Rolex’s history, adding a bit more beautiful (and comfortable) fluidity thanks to softer edges, a slimmer height (9.7 millimetres) and a high-performance bracelet – the new Flat Jubilee. The latter is characterised by seamless visual continuity, achievable thanks to a patented system that allows the bracelet links to extend into the space between the lugs, so the lugs have no holes for spring bars; it looks as if the bracelet and case were one piece.
The surfaces are upgraded with sophisticated touches like the satin finish on the outer links and the high polish on the central links. The extremely precise, perfectly aligned polished bevels running down the sides of the case and bracelet catch the light in the most interesting way, as does the diamond-bright fluted bezel. This iconic Rolex element has been redesigned with fewer flutes (60 as opposed to 72 on the current Day-Date) for a more modern feel that loses none of its reflective properties.
The dial – likely the first thing most people notice – boasts a honeycomb motif created with a femtosecond laser. Rolex says the pattern is a stylised expression of the bezel flutes, which is certainly why they catch the light so well. The honeycomb itself isn’t new and dates back to the 1950s (even if the honeycombs looked different then).
This renewed pattern looks magnificent on the Land-Dweller, which is available in 36mm and 40mm sizes in platinum, steel and white gold, as well as rose gold. The rose-gold and platinum variations are also available with 44 trapeze-cut diamonds on the bezel instead of fluting and 10 baguette-cut diamonds on the dial in place of dial markers inlaid with luminescent material. Every iteration boasts the brand-typical “cyclops eye” date magnifier. But whatever model you opt for, rest assured: the Land-Dweller retains the same precision, quality and beautiful design you’d expect from the iconic brand. But it also absolutely reinvents the Rolex watch.
On the Pulse
Alpine Eagle Limited Edition 8Hz
The French maison’s eight-hertz escapement is reserved for special editions. “Our aim in this is to capitalise on silicon technology in an original escapement … to improve rate and stability and provide our customers with genuine added value,” says co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele.
Parmigiani
Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph in Ultra-Cermet
In choosing high frequency for its integrated chronograph movement, this model is all about enhanced precision; its svelte movement is unique in that it is also only 6.95 millimetres in height despite its full-on state-of-the-art technology.
Zenith
The Zenith Blue Ceramic Trilogy
All watches in this 160th anniversary trilogy are powered by modern variations of El Primero, one of the first automatic chronograph movements and certainly the very first high-frequency automatic chronograph; it remains the only movement from 1969 beating at this rate still in use.
Photos courtesy the watchmakers