Ester has gone from talk of the town to reliable favourite in the space of two years. When the restaurant opened, its Chippendale location was just off-centre enough to be considered risky, but it's a rapidly gentrifying neighbourhood and a slew of hype-inducing openings will soon see this part of town flourish. For now, there's serious fine dining in an industrial style space, with a boundary-pushing edginess you just can't find in the Central Business District.

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