The understated décor at this 9th arrondissement bistro belies its reputation for delivering stellar – though admittedly unfussy – fare. Les Affranchis is helmed by experienced duo Enrico Bertazzo and Keenan Ballois (they also took the reins at another Parisian favourite, Ambroisie), experts at crafting straightforward Gallic food that is nevertheless sprinkled with culinary magic. The roasted pigeon lacquered with lavender, coriander, carrots and fennel is a prime example. Closed on Mondays.

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