In common with so many top Helsinki restaurants, Spis operates out of a miniscule space with this mere 18-seat restaurant raising the bar in terms of a tireless devotion to indigenous ingredients. Dishes are straight out of the mad-scientist lab rat school of cooking such as beetroot ice cream and egg yolk and beetroot balls coated in edible clay. Carnivores may initially blanch at the lack of meat on the menus but the accolades suggest that most diners have been won over: this year the Society of Finnish Gastronomes named Spis their restaurant of the year.

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