Enrique Olvera’s energetic take on Mexican cuisine/street food has always been en vogue, but since moving to new premises in 2017 Pujol’s reputation has grown stratospheric. Now in a bigger space (still in Polanco), all neutral shades and reined-in chic, the celebrity chef shows off his talent through a six-course menu – current options include wild-herb open papadzul, quail egg and chiltomate, and octopus with habanero ink, ayocote and veracruzana sauce, although Olvera refreshes it regularly.

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