If this polished establishment is a temple to its namesake cocktail, its mahogany bar – or at least the central two metres of it – is its altar. The space is reserved solely for the most senior bartender on duty to prepare the drink that put this place on the map (which here, incidentally, is stirred – not shaken). A clandestine reservations-only restaurant in the back room adds to the members-only aura, expertly engineered by native gastro mogul Javier de las Muelas.

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