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SIHH 2017 Highlights

Dazzling debuts, revisions and revived classics: a look at timepieces from the latest edition of the SIHH

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold
Cartier Panthère de Cartier
Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie
IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph
Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large
Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Rally Timer Counter
Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days – 49mm
Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire
Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary Collection
Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Carbon
Ulysse Nardin Marine Regatta Chronograph
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600
Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Automate

A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Annual Calendar
A subtle evolution of a classic complication, this new annual calendar – A. Lange & Söhne’s second timepiece to bear the function – carries established 1815 model family cues in its manually wound movement and analogue date. Available in pink or white gold with red brown or black hand-stitched alligator leather strap, respectively.


Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Frosted Gold. Celebrating the Royal Oak's 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet introduces an elegant twist in Florentine hammered gold – a special technique employed by guest designer for the piece, Carolina Bucci. The result is a shimmering sparkle to the Royal Oak’s pink or white gold cases.


Cartier Panthère de Cartier. Across a variety of gold cases and straps, some with black lacquer, others encrusted with brilliant-cut diamonds, Cartier has reintroduced its Panthère timepiece. Removed from Cartier's lineup in 2004, it reintroduced the watch with little-to-no changes to the case, asserting its design as that of an icon.


Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie. The result of eleven years of research and development, Greubel Forsey’s debut chiming timepiece marks an monumental chapter in the brand's history. An assemblage of 935 parts that in its sum includes eleven security functions, a self-winding mechanism with 20 hours of power reserve and, naturally, a striking mechanism. Three modes allow for hours and quarters to be struck, just hours, or complete silence.


IWC Schaffhausen Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph. Harmoniously referencing Kurt Klaus’ perpetual calendar while updating to merge new functionality, IWC’s engineers have crafted the brand’s first model to combine an 89000 calibre chronograph with the perpetual calendar’s moon phase. A single subdial disk depicts both the moon and the shadow of the Earth, in balance with three other dial displays.


Jaeger-LeCoultre Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large. Jaeger-LeCoultre embellishes its Rendez-Vous collection with a new moon phase, rich colours variants and, perhaps most strikingly, a chiming reminder function in the Sonatina Large. Delicately striking once in synchronisation with the star decal characteristic of some Rendez-Vous models, this new chiming timepiece comes in rose or white gold, paired to the vibrant amethyst hued guilloche dial.


Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph Rally Timer Counter. Inspired by the Minerva-produced Rally Timer stopwatch, this new limited run piece boasts a vintage motorsport look to match its practical functionality. Rotating the piece 180 degrees allows for a pocket watch carry, the straps folding under the case, and inbuilt arms mean this TimeWalker can be placed on a tabletop. Lastly, an accompanying plate can mount the watch to a car’s dashboard for on the go timekeeping.


Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days – 49mm. A special edition of only 50 pieces, this Luminor boasts a deep black dial and numerous applications of carbon in its construction. A case made out of carbon fibre composite, a dial covered in carbon nanotubes and lubricant-free movement (thanks to the properties of silicon and certain carbon composites) demonstrate the developmental nature of the device – an R&D masterwork from Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee (LAB-ID).


Parmigiani Fleurier Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire. An evolution of Michel Parmigiana’s Kalpa design of the 1990s, this anniversary model contains a steel mid-section that houses a PF 110 hand-wound movement crafted from solid gold. A power reserve of 8 days, Côtes de Geneve styling and hand bevelled bridges mark the timepiece a cut above.


Piaget Altiplano 60th Anniversary Collection. Marking a milestone moment for the Altiplano line, Piaget unveiled an array of sophisticated his-and-her colours and high jewellery pieces to swell the collection, including a rather dashing green model with 40mm yellow gold case. Patinated dial gives a subtle sun ray effect as the light catches, and completing the picture, a green alligator leather strap.


Richard Mille RM 50-03 McLaren F1. Designed in collaboration with McLaren, a wealth of horological and Formula 1 engineering knowhow has gone into the construction of the RM 50-03. Weighing some 40g – the movement itself, with split-seconds chronograph, weighs only 7g – the timepiece makes use of Carbon TPT, a carbon composite, and Graph TPT, a carbon composite injected with graphene nanomaterial, for an ultra-light composition reflective of its Formula 1 pedigree.


Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Carbon. The “Astral Skeleton” design accent gets another outing here with the Excalibur Spider Carbon – a SIHH premiere. A distinctive black and red colour scheme draws the eye, with a DLC-treated crown and case, both titanium, providing durability against wear and tear. Uniquely, the movement plate, bridged and tourbillon upper-cage are crafted from carbon. A honeycomb decor on the dial furthers the cut-away, mechanically exposed aesthetic.


Ulysse Nardin Marine Regatta Chronograph. A timepiece to highlight the brand’s links with the Americas Cup (which takes place this year), the Artemis Racing team, and also demonstrate the importance of timekeeping for participants, Ulysse Nardin unveiled its Regatta Chronograph. A sweeping countdown function – programmable up to 10 minutes – when activated sends the seconds hand backwards, counting down the minutes before reaching zero and resuming a clockwise direction, timing the race.


Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600. Developed completely from scratch over a five year period, this new model follows a theme established by the legendary 57-complication Reference 57260. Pushing boundaries in miniaturisation and engineering, the Les Cabinotiers Celestia Astronomical Grand Complication 3600 features 23 astronomical complications that give 20 functions across its twin dials. Available in 18k white gold.


Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Automate. Tapping into the enchanting world of automata and decorative movements, Van Cleef’s 2017 novelty renders a vibrant pastoral scene to life with a butterfly automaton. Fluttering its wings at random (or on command via button press), it stands apart for the vertical movement up into the case’s space. Intricate enamel work, mother-of-pearl, diamonds and sapphires complete the precious picture in typically ornate Van Cleef style.

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