Before you enter this 55-seat Michelin-starred eatery, you know it’s in refined company, sited next to the legendary Café Gerbeaud on Budapest’s central Vörösmarty Square. Inside, amid sparkling adornments and exquisite drapes, feast on the extensive six-course menu, which includes goose liver plus pear and candied ginger, or water buffalo tartar with onion textures and mushroom slices. Chief meal-creator Ádám Mészáros makes fine use of Magyar ingredients while not holding back on contemporary garnishings.

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