Born from a much-hyped supper club, this restaurant had a lot of cool cred before its opening. Several years later, fans have not been disappointed. The unpretentious, convivial atmosphere of the dining room, as well as the intimate feel of the excellent wine bar downstairs, is a major draw. The food, created by an American chef, probably has to work extra-hard to gain the Paris seal of approval – and consistently lives up to high expectations.

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