A barren warehouse is recast as an intimate dining room thanks to Fearon Hay Architects and owner Tony Stewart. There’s drama in the decor, with black bead curtains encircling leather-clad booths and the clamour of conversation. Executive chef Des Harris oversees an equally ambitious menu – lamb with caramelised yoghurt, nettle and sunflower, for example – and the execution is exemplary. Some 300 wines on offer illustrates Clooney’s dedication to “the concept of curation”, and sharing the work of artisans.

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