last update: May 17th 2012
Travel: Destinations

Travel: Destinations

Weekend Guide: Berlin

Berlin: the Spree River and the Fernsehturm

Berlin is not a rich city. Instead, Berlin is spacious. Space is the one luxury that Berlin has more than enough of and that sets it apart from every other metropolis in the world. It's what draws the artists who find huge, light-flooded ateliers at modest prices, it attracts designers, who can showcase their wares to an international audience in spaces they could never afford in London, New York or Paris, and it delights restaurateurs who don't have to tread that fine line between dining in an intimate setting and knocking elbows with the person at the next table. Creatives and artists from all over the world live and work in Berlin, reviving derelict neighbourhoods and moving on as soon as the mainstream follows suit.

The place

(c) Berliner Partner / FTB Werbe-Fotografik / Grafik: D17
(c) Berliner Partner / FTB Werbe-Fotografik / Grafik: D17

Tomorrow, the German capital will commemorate the day, exactly 50 years ago, that the Berlin Wall was built. The wall that separated the city for more than 28 years, and didn't begin to crumble until November 1989, left its mark on the city and the people that lived there. You can trace the course of the former inner-city border that separated the German Democratic Republic (GDR) from the Federal Republic of Germany (FRG) along the 'Berliner Mauerweg' (Berlin Wall Trail). The trail takes you right across the city, past some few remaining wall fragments, several preserved watchtowers and numerous memorials. It's a great way to get a feel for the entire city and a real understanding of its history. If the full 160 km trail seems a bit too ambitious, you can just do the segments that interest you. The city of Berlin's website describes each part of the trail in detail to help you plan your tour. The red line on this image shows where the wall once separated the two parts of the city.

Read more about the Mauerweg

The look

Andreas Murkudis store Berlin

The Berlin look is often conflated with the so-called “Mitte” look (after the trendy Berlin-Mitte district). The bohemian Berliner who hangs out in Mitte aims to be an edgy dresser, with individual style that is, if at all possible, slightly ahead of the next trend. Many locals lament that Mitte has passed its zenith and is being ruined by the high street retailers moving in. Andreas Murkudis, who once contributed to the rise of the neighbourhood with 3 boutiques in a courtyard off Münzstraße, is now one of the first to move on. Murkudis knows an opportunity when he sees it and jumped at a chance move into spacious new premises on Potsdamer Straße, a street that hasn't attracted any other fashion stores – yet. One of the stars of the store is Andreas Murkudis' fashion designer brother Kostas with his elegant, yet edgy designs for men and women, as well as men's and women's fashion by international avant garde darlings Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto and Sophia Kokosalaki. In addition, other German brands such as Pulver (clothing), Nymphenburg (porcelain) and e15 (furniture) are featured. Find the ingredients for your Berlin look here, even if the store is not in Mitte.

Visit Andreas Murkudis' website

The treat

Bildzusatz: Fotograf W. Siesing. Copyright PentaNex GmbH.
Bildzusatz: Fotograf W. Siesing. Copyright PentaNex GmbH.

The Hackesche Höfe (courtyards) was the renovation that gave birth to Berlin-Mitte as we know it today. In GDR times, the courtyards, much like the streets surrounding them, were largely neglected. The complex was originally designed by August Endel in German art nouveau (Jugendstil) style, and opened in 1906 as a mixed-use premises. The listed heritage site was in bad repair at the time of reunification, and it was only due to the intervention of a number of tenants that its art nouveau facades had not been destroyed. After extensive renovations that restored the complex to its former glory, today the Hackesche Höfe once again house a thriving mix of production, retail and residential properties in 8 communicating courtyards, each with its own distinctive (and admittedly at times incongruous) style. Some of the courtyards are still residential, others are occupied by offices, craft workshops, designer ateliers and shops showcasing products by local artisans. The perfect place to pick up a unique souvenir or gift.

Visit the Hackesche Höfe homepage

The food

Foto © Restaurant reinstoff
Foto © Restaurant reinstoff

Reinstoff, literally translated, means pure substance, and that is what diners get at the restaurant in Berlin-Mitte. Reinstoff takes pride in cooking with local, organic produce in general and rediscovering long-forgotten heirloom vegetables in particular, taking care to preserve the essence of each flavour and a more abstract sense of the source. The dish 'Uckermark in red', for example (pictured), is named after the Uckermark region to the north of Berlin, while the names of other dishes disclose the origin of a fish (Lake Müritz, north of Berlin) or veal (the Taunus mountain range). Young chef Daniel Achilles hails from Leipzig, south of Berlin, but learned his trade in gourmet restaurants across Germany. While working with Juan Amador near Frankfurt, he met Ivo Ebert and Sabine Demel, who became his new business partners when he decided to set up shop in Berlin. Within a year of opening, the restaurant had received its first Michelin star and some say the next one won't be far behind.

Visit the Reinstoff website

The talk

Berlin has become so achingly hip that in recent years, even hipsters from New York have begun to move there (as some locals will proudly, others grumblingly, tell you). On the one hand, this gives the entire city an exhiliarating feeling of creativity, a sense of being at the hub of whatever trends are about to be born. At the same time, it presents these hipsters with the issue of how to distinguish themselves. In a city where seemingly everyone is or wants to be an artist, has a quirky sense of dress and lives a nonconformist lifestyle, arrogant hyper-individualism has become a popular strategy for defense. One expat Berliner and blogger has recognised this irony and makes fun of the local hipsters' desperate attempt at being cooler than all the other cool people (anonymously, as he has admitted to being a bit of a hipster himself – and a coward).

Visit the blog page

The inspiration

C/O Berlin

The story of C/O Berlin is testament to the city’s creative potential – and it shows how much is possible with little funding or curatorial support, but with a healthy dose of self-initiative and fervour. Photographer Stephan, designer Marc Naroska and architect Ingo Pott founded the organisation in the year 2000 to prevent a planned exhibition of 400 Magnum agency photographs being cancelled due to lack of appropriate exhibition spaces. They hosted the exhibition in the former Kaiserliches Postfuhramt (imperial postal services building) and based on the address 'c/o Postfuhramt', C/O Berlin was born. At the same time, the name indicates that these three volunteers are taking 'care of' the city’s culture, and that the city is merely hosting, but not supporting, their work (financially or otherwise). In the past years, 'The Cultural Forum for Photography', as it is officially named, has brought brought the work of numerous internationally renowned photographers to Berlin, including Robert Mapplethorpe, Peter Lindbergh and Annie Leibovitz. The three founders held their photography exhibitions in a nearby address for several years, until the Postfuhramt became available again in 2006. Ever since, the future has been uncertain, as inverstors are keen to turn the building into a hotel or other profitable venue. The current lease expires at the end of 2011, so catch C/O Berlin im alten Postfuhramt while you can.

Go to the C/O Berlin homepage

The pad

The Hotel Adlon

Berlin is a city with a rich history, and the legendary Hotel Adlon has witnessed its fair share of historical events. Even though the Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin that now occupies the spot within view of the Brandenburg Gate is not the original building, the house prides itself on its historical roots. The first Hotel Adlon was built in 1907 by the well-connected entrepreneur Lorenz Adlon who wanted to build a hotel on Pariser Platz, which was then the very centre of Berlin. Kaiser Wilhelm cleared the way for the project and 'Das Adlon' became a famed luxury hotel in Berlin’s Golden Twenties. The hotel sustained little damage during World War II, but burnt down shortly after the end of the war. Due to its position right on the border between what was to become East and West Germany, most of the remaining ruin was torn down and only a small wing remained in operation. The reincarnation of the original Berlin Grand Hotel is inspired by the style of the original building, and guests who are unaware of the building’s history could easily assume that not only the hotel, but also the building it is housed in, look back on a 100-year history. 

Visit the hotel website

The drink

Photo (c) solar BERLIN 2011
Photo (c) solar BERLIN 2011

s o l a r Berlin is so Berlin. Housed in a less-than-attractive concrete building (think industrial chic meets "are you sure this is the right place?”), a panoramic lift whisks you up to the 16th storey, where a breathtaking view of the city awaits. The floor is occupied by the restaurant, while the lounge, on the 17th floor is a laid-back cocktail bar that becomes a nightclub as the evening wears on. Here, Berlin’s sheer size and spaciousness becomes apparent once again – inside, with the generous layout and ample room for 300 guests; outside, with a 270-degree view across the city, taking in nearby Alexanderplatz with its distinctive orb-topped TV tower. The perfect place for a sundowner, as well as a great place to begin an exploration of the nightlife Berlin is so well known for.

Go to s o l a r Berlin's hompage

The events

The Berliner Festspiele building

In 2011, Berlin celebrates 60 years of the eclectic conglomeration of several independent festivals coordinated under the umbrella of the Berliner Festspiele. From the beginning, the Berliner Festspiele served to foster cultural exchange between the Eastern and Western parts of the city. The festival programmes encompass contemporary music (MaerzMusik), orchestra music (musikfest berlin), jazz (JazzFest Berlin), literature (Literaturfestival Berlin), dance and theatre (Theatertreffen, spielzeit’europa), as well as the lecture series Berliner Lektionen and contests to nurture young artists, theatre makers, musicians and authors. The Berliner Festspiele also organise exhibitions in the Martin-Gropius-Bau, a Renaissance-style museum building by the grand-uncle of Bauhaus architect Walter Gropius, while the Haus der Berliner Festspiele by Berlin architect Fritz Bornemann serves as the location for events.

View the Berliner Festspiele homepage

The trip

Bild: Copyright Stiftung Preußische Schlösser und Gärten Berlin-Brandenburg.
Bild: Copyright Stiftung Preußische Schlösser und Gärten Berlin-Brandenburg.

Sanssouci means without care – and a visit to Sanssouci castle in nearby Potsdam does indeed seem like a trip to a more carefree place, compared to the urban grit of Berlin, which, despite all its charms, has its fair share of problems. Built between 1745 and 1747 as a summer residence for King Friedrich the Great of Prussia, the castle, along with the surrounding gardens and several other castles in the vicinity, was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990. The Roccoco-style castle was a refuge rather than a representative building, which gives it an entirely different look and feel than Versailles, to which its beauty is often compared. The terraced vineyards that form the basis for the gardens lead up to the charming old castle, while the new castle, built 20 years later, is far more pompous. There are numerous small chapels created in different architectural styles dotted throughout the gardens that are well worth exploring, and it is especially in the garden that it becomes apparent why King Friedrich the Great valued this summer residence as a place to escape to from life at court in Berlin. After the reunification of Germany, the king’s final wish was granted, and his body returned to be buried at Sanssouci.

Get more information at the Potsdam tourism site



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