Given all the mentions of Fifty Shades of Grey during the week thanks to the appearance of some sexed up leather pieces, another contender for inspiration of the season – the chess board – didn’t get it’s due. Yet black and white looks dominated in a week that usually marinates in colour. For designers, black and white for day or evening not only carries a simplicity and elegance but highlights construction and silhouette. Marc Jacobs’ black and white sequinned or curved stripe evening gowns were knockouts. At Ralph Lauren and DKNY, the colour combination took a shirt and long skirt to the next level. If you’re looking for sex appeal, Jason Wu’s printed black bralet top, sheer tank and white pencil skirt would certainly make your lunch meeting with a client a lot more interesting.

Lace and embroidered looks can prove dangerous terrain for designers – one step in the wrong direction and your work may approach overkill. However, this wasn’t a problem for Spring 2013, where Chantilly lace worked beautifully over guipure shifts  at Vera Wang, or as inset at Jason Wu. Victoria Beckham favoured shirts and dresses with lattice lace insets, but the pieces of the season were Calvin Klein’s architectural  black moiré embroidery dresses. Klein designer Francisco Costa called the collection “urban femininity, a dialogue on form and sensuality”, and that it surely was.

Soft, supple, colourful and given the artisanal treatment, designers now see leather as a year round chic staple. At Proenza Schouler, leather was perforated in zip front scuba dresses and laminated for jackets. Donna Karan’s leather dress and Derek Lam’s blue leather pencil skirt and vest are already on editor’s wish lists. Alexander Wang took leather in another direction, with a cut-out panels dress and dramatic effect.  

If black and white are too low key for you, designers also spun the colour wheel and settled on some vivid hues, including the return of orange from last spring, blues, and metallic silvers. Ralph Lauren, Vera Wang and Thakoon all embraced blue, and worked it as bold colour, print or appliqués. The fuchsia and white colour blocked slip dresses at Narciso Rodriguez were lust worthy. J. Mendel  gets the prize for the most stunning tangerine gown of the season, though it also helps to have a body that won’t quit. You know actresses and their stylists are already fighting over this one.