last update: May 21st 2013
Travel: Destinations

Travel: Destinations

Centurion Challenge: Kilimanjaro

How to climb the legendary mountain

Photo courtesy of Thomson Safaris
Photo courtesy of Thomson Safaris

How many people can say they've climbed a major mountain? We're not talking about hikes to local overlooks, we're talking about days-long treks of ascension to monumental summits – summits named on the covers of lengthy guide books. Those bragging rights belong mostly to adrenaline junkies and adventure addicts, but you don't have to be hardcore outdoor to earn some for yourself. Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to surmount Africa's highest peak and the world's tallest freestanding mountain. Here are a few suggestions for making the journey more doable, plus where to stay for pre- and post-climb comfort.

Photo © Paul Souders Andrews, Courtesy of Thomson Safaris
Photo © Paul Souders Andrews, Courtesy of Thomson Safaris

At 5,895 metres above sea level, Tanzania's Mount Kilimanjaro is high, but surprisingly manageable even for those lacking in experience and specially designed equipment. Yet only a third of the 25,000 yearly visitors reach the peak. Strong winds, lofty altitudes, steep slopes and unpredictable weather can make the climb treacherous, and one not to be underestimated. Kilimanjaro is best confronted in the cool, dry season between June and October, or the warmer, wetter, greener season from December to March. Don't attempt her in April, May or November, when rains make for miserable if not hazardous climbing conditions.

The most sound advice for a safe and successful trek is to find a reputable, highly trained guide, which can be a mission in its own, as Kilimanjaro travel companies are a dime a dozen. US-based Thomson Safaris is a trusted tour operator that boasts NOLS-certified Wilderness First Responder guides, all of whom have more than 100 summits under their belts. Moreover, meals are arranged by a professional nutritionist and eaten in specially designed Thomson solar-lit, heated dining tents. Toilet tents are also provided, so climbers don't have to use the long-drop park toilets. Each climber receives a personal pre-departure assistant to make preparations and offer tips, and on the mountain, a porter can carry up to 15 kilograms of your gear. Private trips, high-end rental gear, luxury sleeping tents and a personal porter to carry your day pack can be arranged on request. Thomson also partners with the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project, a non-profit that monitors the treatment of porters.

Though some treks take as little as five days, we recommend Thomson's ten-day Grand Traverse route. A longer climb means more time to acclimatise, and this is essential – acclimatisation can mean the difference between seeing the view from the top and turning around early due to altitude sickness, which can plague even the healthiest climbers with headaches, shortness of breath, dizziness and nausea. The Grand Traverse also offers ample chances for spectacular views, opportunities to explore the mountain's glaciers, and a daytime summit bid rather than the nighttime bid on shorter climbs.

Photo courtesy of Thomson Safaris
Photo courtesy of Thomson Safaris

Ndarakwai Ranch

Of course, your African adventure can start well before you hit the trail, especially if you bunk at one of the more nature-inspired lodges in the Kilimanjaro area. Ndarakwai Ranch has some of the best pre-climb accommodations, deftly combining luxury with the great outdoors. Its 11,000 acres of preserved landscape and protected wildlife immerse you in Mother Nature from the start – fall asleep to the sounds of bush babies in the distance, or catch a glimpse of elephants trundling through the camp.

Elephants plodding through the vast grounds at Ndarakwai Ranch

The sunny hours are filled with game- or birdwatching walks, drives through the reserve, horseback safaris, and visits to local Maasai villages. At the end of action-packed days, guests gather 'round indoor and outdoor fireplaces for snacks and drinks before bedding down in roomy, thatched-roof tents with en suite bathrooms. Ndarakwai Ranch embraces eco-tourism, meaning your impact on the fascinating and vital ecosystem around you is minimal. Rainwater is collected for the showers heated with twigs and camp waste, while candles and kerosene lamps light the nights, because the only electrical outlets are in the reception area. The camp structures were made from local materials, built and staffed by locals, and firewood comes from trees knocked down by elephants. Ndarakwai also has awesome views of the extinct volcano you're getting ready to conquer.

  • Outdoor lounging at Ndarakwai Ranch
  • A hut at Ndarakwai Ranch

Onsea House

For a pampered stay post-climb – which you might need after ten days of walking – head to the Onsea House, a boutique hotel in Arusha. Get a plush night's sleep in a spacious four-poster bed, even out your hiker's tan by the pool with lawn bar, or soothe your muscles in an outdoor Jacuzzi. Recently added Machweo Wellness Retreat & Fine Dining awaits weary adventurers with a steam bath, sauna, massages and mani/pedis, as well as a second swimming pool. European and African haute cuisine is served for breakfast, lunch and dinner – a nice change from the tasty yet unavoidably redundant mountain food. Onsea is a great last stop for recharging your battery before the plane ride back home.

  • A bedroom at the Onsea House
  • Fine dining at the Onsea House



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