Top Five Trends at New York Fashion Week, Fall 2013
Collaborations in fashion are nothing new, but the fact that fashion icon Oscar de la Renta had invited former Dior designer John Galliano for a residency in his studio leading up to New York Fashion Week Autumn 13 proved one of the hottest topics of the week. And this was before anyone saw the clothes. When the looks did materialise, many felt the hand of Galliano was evident in the silhouettes and the styling.
Elsewhere on the runways, the question of what we would be wearing come autumn was answered in a colour palette of black, white, grey, cobalt and orange reds. The love affair with crafted furs and tailored leathers continues, as seen at Jason Wu and Michael Kors. Oversize coats dominated along with a new, architectural accent on the shoulder - round at Proenza Schouler and square at Calvin Klein. The accessories story was also sharpened, with buckled gladiator boots at Prabal Gurung and pointed stiletto pumps at Narciso Rodriguez.
Here are the top trends from New York Fall 13.
Designers continue to play with construction details on leather dresses and jackets, but where they really pushed themselves was in presenting fur as directional fashion. At Jason Wu, a snow white fox jacket stole the show. Michael Kors showed mink in a camouflage print – talk about military chic. Marc Jacobs worked it as trim on a sequined coat. At Dennis Basso a hooded, cross-belted fur is heading straight for Aspen or the Swiss slopes.
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Forget whatever you think about plaid. In New York checks were shown blown up and recast beyond traditional colours. Tommy Hilfiger led the charge with glen plaid coats and separates that riffed on menswear tailoring and looked thoroughly chic. Calvin Klein worked plaid into a flared shell and pleated skirt suit. Tory Burch’s embellished plaid pantsuit in crimson made the fabric totally modern and dare we say, elegant.
The Sculpted Shoulder
The accent on the shoulder as a key design detail was notable this season. While Calvin Klein took cues from military tailoring, the rounded shoulder with technical seaming cut a wide swath. It injected softness into looks but also drama. The cocoon shoulder was also seen at labels as diverse as Proenza Schouler, Lacoste and Alexander Wang – with Lacoste’s broad shoulders being a standout.
Playing With Blocks
Fabric blocking was another highlight, this season was about mixing colours and textures which showcased craftsmanship and visual appeal. Both Derek Lam and DKNY worked in black, white and camel to colour block traditional silhouettes. Michael Kors made sure you would be seen at midnight in a black and neon orange bonded cotton and leather storm coat. At Lacoste, colour blocking put a new spin on sport. Hopefully this trend will show up on a Grand Slam tennis court soon.
There were plenty of glamour options for evening, with the accent on beading, shine and making an entrance. Yet none could match the sheer power of Oscar de la Renta’s silk faille shocking pink and purple ball gowns with gold bullion embroidery. Gowns in liquid sequins from Marc Jacobs, dresses in metallic brocade from Vera Wang and beaded column gowns from Jenny Packham took tailoring to new heights. The only question left is which red carpet they eventually end up on.